Tuesday, 15 February 2011

Coleslaw

To my mind, no dish better demonstrates how to cook really well than coleslaw.  If you start off with good fresh ingredients, handle them with care, make things from scratch (here, mayonnaise), taste carefully and season boldly, you will end up with something just exceptionally delicious.

This is lovely with a homemade beef burger (see steak haché blog post) and chips, or the roast belly of pork from another post with some new potatoes.  No further sauce would be necessary in either case.

Coleslaw

2 large, fresh carrots, peeled and coarsely grated
1/4 white or spring cabbage, cored, sliced finely, washed and left to perk up in cold water for 10mins (if possible) then dried in a tea towel
1 egg yolk
100ml vegetable oil
lemon juice
salt and freshly ground (preferably white) pepper
excellent quality wholegrain mustard from a jar that is less than 2 months old

Place the egg yolk in a mixing bowl, steadied on your work surface by a damp cloth.  Add 1/2 tbsp lemon juice, a pinch of salt and some ground pepper.  Whisk briefly until well combined and very slightly lightened (this is an easy recipe).  If the egg yolk is straight from the fridge, as it most likely will be, then place the base of the bowl, with the yolk in it, into a saucepan of water hot from the tap, and whisk gently for a minute or two.  This will get it up to room temperature and lets the emulsion form more easily.  Straight from the bottle, add a drop of oil while whisking, then another, then in a thin stream progressing to large glugs as the mayonnaise thickens.  The more oil you add the thicker it will get.

You can now add the carrots and cabbage straight into the bowl along with a tablespoon of wholegrain mustard and combine with a metal spoon.

Now to taste.  The way you make this dish, as well as a great many sauces, taste exceptional is by seasoning accurately, and strongly, with both salt and acidity (which comes from the mustard and lemon juice).  The three flavours, fattiness, acid and salt will balance each other and create a heightened and lengthened, very pleasant, flavour.  So when you are tasting, take time to assess the flavours.  If it is too salty add more acid.  If it is too sharp add more salt.  If it is flabby and fatty tasting, you may need to add more of both.


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