Salmon poached in a white wine court bouillon, hollandaise

There is something very fine in the texture of a good court bouillon.  This is what you must impart to the fish.

Court-bouillon

2 sliced carrots
2 sliced celery sticks
1 sliced onion
2 sliced leek tops
1 bay leaf
1 sprig thyme
1.5 litres cold water
1 glass everyday white wine
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon coarse sea salt
1/2 a star anise

Place the above in a saucepan.  The water must be cold. Bring carefully to a simmer, skimming off the grey scum into a bowl with a large spoon.  You can stop when the scum becomes white.  Before a full boil is reached, reduce the heat and simmer gently for 20 minutes, then remove from the heat and allow to cool in the saucepan.  Add 3 black peppercorns.

Poaching the salmon

You can either poach a whole fish, in which case a fish kettle is neccesary, or you can have great success cooking for smaller numbers with a side, or half a side, of salmon poached in the base of a large oval or round casserole.  Remove the bones from a fillet with tweezers or fine nosed pliers first.

Place the fish in the implement, and cover with the cold court-bouillon, veg and all.  Place on a medium heat and slowly bring up the temperature.  For a whole fish you may need to simmer for 5 minutes before leaving for a further 5 off the heat.  For a fillet the water will probably not need to approach anything like a simmer, especially if it is a smaller piece or you have a large volume of court bouillon around it, but again the fish's texture will benefit from relaxing in the hot water off the heat for a couple of minutes.  Salmon benefits from being underdone, and you must judge the moment to remove the pan from the heat, and then the fish from the pan, by watching the fish turn opaque, and sensing things.  Give it a go.  You will get the hang of it quickly.

A thermometer may help with a whole fish, 56C is perfectly done so you may want the centre to be 50C.  It doesn't work brilliantly with a fillet, as water seeps into the hole you make in flaking fish, and removing just to take the temperature is risky.

To serve the fish cold simply allow it to cool completely sitting in the court bouillon.

Remove the fish to a board with two spatulas.  Peel off the skin leaving a shiny surface, and divide into serving portions with your hands, respecting the natural flakes, rather than with a knife.  It will need seasoning.

Hollandaise

2 egg yolks
1 tbsp cold water
150g butter
Lemon juice
Salt
White pepper

Melt the butter in a small saucepan then leave to stand for a few minutes.  Skim the scum from the surface and discard it.

Over a very low heat, whisk the egg yolks and water in a saucepan until lightened in colour and slightly thickened.  Place the pan on a damp cloth on a surface, and add the butter slowly in a thin stream while whisking, leaving behind most of the white residue. You may return to the heat to thicken further, but be careful.  Finish by seasoning boldly with lemon juice, salt and white pepper, tasting for the all-important balance.

If you make the court bouillon with half the amount of salt and vinegar, it can form the base for an exceptional leek and potato or watercress soup, after having been used to poach the fish.

Like I say, preparing stocks and court bouillons carefully like this can make things very fine indeed.